Best Engine Stands, Hoists & Levelers for the Home Garage

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Sooner or later, most classic car projects involve pulling an engine, whether for a rebuild, a transmission swap, detailing the engine bay or a restomod crate engine. Three tools make it possible in a home garage: an engine hoist (also called a shop crane or cherry picker) to lift it out, a load leveler to tilt it at the right angle, and an engine stand to hold it while you work.

We picked these on rated capacity, stability, build quality, ease of storage and value. Engine work involves heavy, suspended loads. Never put any part of your body under a suspended engine, stay within rated capacities, work on a flat, solid floor and read each tool's instructions before use.

Engine hoists: what to look for

• Capacity at each boom position: hoists are rated highest with the boom retracted. Extending the boom lowers capacity. Check the rating at the extension you'll use to reach over the fender.
• Folding design: folding legs and a folding boom let you store the hoist against a wall.
• Leg length and width: legs must reach under the car and fit around the tires. Some hoists have adjustable legs.
• Hydraulic ram quality: a smooth, controllable release valve lets you lower the engine slowly and precisely.
• Casters: steel or polyurethane casters roll better with a load. Swivel casters help maneuver.

The best engine hoists, stands and levelers

Load levelers

A load leveler goes between the hoist hook and the engine chains. It lets you change the engine's tilt angle while it's hanging, which is essential for getting an engine and transmission together out of a car, or angling an engine into the bay without hitting the firewall or radiator support. A crank-style leveler is easier to adjust smoothly than a simple bar with holes. Attach the leveler with properly rated bolts into solid threaded holes, often intake manifold or cylinder head bolt holes, using hardened bolts threaded in deeply.

Engine stands: what to look for

• Capacity: with a margin over your engine's weight.
• Base design: a wide, stable base, often an H- or U-shaped base, resists tipping. Three-leg stands are cheaper but less stable with heavy engines.
• Rotating head: lets you turn the engine to work on the bottom, with a locking mechanism.
• Adjustable mounting arms: to fit different bellhousing bolt patterns.
• Four casters: with good wheels for rolling across the garage.
• Gear-driven rotation: on heavier-duty stands, a gear crank rotates the engine smoothly and safely.

Mounting an engine safely on a stand

1. Drain oil and coolant first; engines will leak when rotated.
2. Use grade 8 or equivalent bolts of the correct thread, and thread them in deeply into the block's bellhousing holes.
3. Position the mounting arms so the engine's center of gravity is close to the stand's rotation axis.
4. Lower the engine gradually onto the stand with the hoist, keeping it supported until all bolts are tight.
5. Rotate slowly and check stability before working.

Many restorers remove heavy components such as heads before rotating the engine to reduce the load.

Pulling an engine: the basic process

1. Disconnect the battery, drain fluids and label every wire, hose and cable.
2. Remove the hood; it makes the job much easier and safer. Mark hinge positions first.
3. Remove radiator, fan and accessories as needed.
4. Disconnect exhaust, fuel lines, throttle linkage and wiring.
5. Support the transmission if the engine is coming out alone.
6. Attach the leveler and chains, take up tension, then remove motor mount bolts.
7. Lift slowly, checking for anything still connected, and tilt as needed to clear the car.

Take lots of photos and bag parts. Our restoration guide covers the wider project.

Garage space and floor

Hoists and stands need a flat, solid concrete floor. Cracks, expansion joints and gravel make casters stop suddenly, which can tip a loaded hoist. Plan the path from the car to where the engine stand will live. A folded hoist and stand take relatively little space, but a hoist in use needs room in front of the car to extend.

Rent, borrow or buy?

If you'll pull only one engine, renting a hoist from a tool rental shop or auto parts store loaner program may be sensible. If you're doing a full restoration or plan multiple projects, owning a folding hoist and a good stand pays off quickly. Stands are needed for weeks or months during a rebuild, so most restorers buy one.

Accessories that help

• Engine lifting chains or plates rated for the load.
• A drip pan under the engine stand.
• An engine bag or cover to keep dust out during long rebuilds.
• A transmission jack if you'll pull transmissions separately.
• Bolt and parts organizers for fasteners.

See best restoration tools.

Crate engines and swaps

If you're installing a crate engine, these tools do the job in reverse. Crate engines often arrive on a pallet; a hoist lifts them onto a stand for dress-up and accessory installation before going in. See rebuild vs crate engine and restomod build guide.

Hoist safety checklist

• Inspect the hydraulic ram, chains and hooks before each use.
• Use chains and bolts rated for the load.
• Keep the load low while rolling the hoist.
• Never work under a suspended engine.
• Lower slowly and in control.